Rs 1,600 for 1 kg hilsa. That’s the going rate for ileesh (Bengali for hilsa) on an online portal that specialises in grocery in Kolkata. While Bengalis in India are known to relish their favourite hilsa, there has been a marked decline in the population of Tenulosa ilisha (scientific name) because of excessive fishing that pays little attention to conservation measures by respective state governments. As hilsa becomes a luxury for fish eaters, especially Bengalis, a project in Gujarat will add to their fear of missing out on ileesh during Jamai Sashti (annual ceremony when varieties of fish are lavished on sons-in-law). The Bhadbhut barrage project in Gujarat’s Bharuch district has resulted in outrage among thousands of fishermen living in areas downstream of Narmada, as they fear their sole source of income is in danger.